Insider's guide: Hvar, Croatia

Get the low-down on the Adriatic's most stylish island, from the best beds to the most blinging barsThe Dalmatian coast is fast becoming the French Rivera of the east, and Hvar is unquestionably its St Tropez. Although it has been a popular with yacht-goers of the Mediterranean for years, its relative inaccessibility has meant that it managed to hold on to its special tranquil beauty. And it's easy to see the appeal: the Adriatic air smells of lavender as the rocky hills surrounding Hvar town itself are blanketed in purple. At the bottom of the slopes, the harbour town curves around the south-facing bay, with those yachts bobbing on the crystal clear water.SleepWith 10 Hvar hotels, from simple to stylish, the Suncani group has a virtual monopoly. Its two most luxurious are the 59-room Adriana and the 54-room Riva, both on Hvar Harbour. Adriana offers five-star suites, service and facilities, including a gorgeous rooftop pool and lounge bar. Fabrika bb (00 385 21 750200; www.suncanihvar.com/adriana) Doubles from €299, B&BFor a more boutique feel, try the sleek 54-room Riva, with its hints of 1950s movie-star glam.Riva (00 385 21 750100; www.suncanihvar.com/riva) Doubles from €148, B&BEatDine on seafood and pasta in the creeper-clad courtyard of 15th century Palace de Paladinis, sharing wooden tables and benches with well-heeled yacht owners. Petra Hektorovica 4 (00 385 21 742104; www.tihi-hvar.com/paladinis) About 300kn for two without drinksSample Croatian home cooking at local’s favourite Tinel. Don’t miss the delicious Scampi Buzara – a delicious but messy prawn dish. Krizna Luka (00 385 9843 3761) About 200kn for two without drinksDrinkTake a short hop on a water taxi to the new Carpe Diem beach bar. Sip on Mojitos with other young trendies by the pool as a DJ spins some tunes. Stipanska (00 385 91 505 0855; www.carpe-diem-hvar.com)ShopLocal lad Toni Rico sells his catwalk-cool menswear at Design Studio Rico. This season, expect harem shorts, trad-meets-rad waistcoats and polka-dot shirts. Burak BB (00 385 91 530 7580)PlayAt sunset, walk up to the 16th century Spanjola citadel for atmospheric views of the town and Adriatic.Explore the coastline of Hvar and the nearby islands on a traditional Croatian gulet, motor boat or yacht from Sail Dalmatia. (020 773 66 500 www.saildalmatia.com) Seven days from €7,800 per boat.Don’t missSee the country’s hottest young designers at Hvar Town’s biggest fashion show in late August. Check the Suncani website for details closer to the time.(www.suncanihvar.com/meetings-incentives/events)After chilling out at Bonjs les Bains, the sun terrace at the new Hotel Amfora, stroll a few metres to the Splash Beach Bar for its rocking après-beach parties. (00 385 21 750 300; www.suncanihvar.com/bonj-les-bains)See the article online here:http://www.cntraveller.com/guides/europe/croatia/hvar/where-to-stay